MGF Hydrogas pumpage

Today I had a bit of driving round to do. I had to:

• Go to North Wales and get some bits off a scrappy Astra GSi,
• Go to Mitsubishi in Sandycroft and order more parts.

The GSi was completely stripped, apart from the interior and bits of plastic I will get at some point. They had a Lancer Evolution III in there though, with the engine ready to be taken for 400 pounds. If it wasn't for the out-of-my-league aluminium gearbox fabrication and the fact I've got to further damage my body doing hard work again, and the fact my dad will have kittens if he sees me with an engine crane on his drive, I would've bought it there and then. It's on the list though!

Mitsubishi was another experience as well. They are a strange lot, who don't like to give parts numbers away (even though I made a mental note of it - and forgot it), and only order parts on chassis numbers. The place is a bit of a mess as well - for a place that sells 30k+ Lancers, they should do a bit of tidying up. I waited for 1/2 an hour for them to find out the parts number, and was then told I wouldn't be able to bring it back if it's the wrong part - which sorta goes against 50 year old Trading Standards laws, and it'd take two weeks to arrive. I decided I would order my parts from Australia, it would be quicker.

I then took the MGF up to St Helen's to get the Hydragas suspension pumped up. The car doesn't use springs, it has a pair of dampers for the front and rear suspension which have nitrogen and fluid filled spheres which keep the car level. These had emptied over the course of being stood for so long, and I'm almost betting they will be empty again and need new spheres to replace the old ones.
The car ran fine, apart the bottom literally dragging along the road for some of the way - I had to avoid speed bumps, it simply wouldn't go over them at all, I didn't realise the car was so low!

The temperature gauge came pretty close to the red line, which had me thinking the head gasket had gone - argh. When we arrived, I checked the coolant, which was boiling, but there was no sign of whitish oil contamination - the coolant was still green after over a year! When I took the cap off (carefully), a lot of air bubbles came out of the system. I let it cool down as the people pumped the dampers up. They used some kind of primitive hand pump on a box which looked like something from WWII - this injected nitrogen and suspension fluid into the car, and they measured it all round to set to a standard height.

For 25 pounds they spent 1 hour doing this - I was expecting to pay around 100. I drove home and noticed the difference - it wasn't scraping the road for starters. I was worried the car was going to seriously overheat, but there was no fluctuation on the temp gauge at all - I think there was an air lock in the coolant somewhere, and the pressure and heat expansion managed to clear it. I even went down a one way slip road after being sent the wrong way several times by my Tom-Tom.

Next on the list is replacing the brake pipes and the handbrake and bonnet open cables. I will do this when I've had a rest from messing about with cars for a bit. Was nice to have a break from something as complex and ancient as the Starion, the MGF doesn't even have ABS or PAS, it's just an engine and a fuse box.

Clippy

:(

This car is a fucking cunt

THIS ... FUCKING CAR

There, I feel better now. How I hate it's randomness.

I've made no progress of late, as I haven't touched it since Saturday. I have been doing the usual web trawling - there really is not a lot of information on Starions. The forums are based on the 2.6. There is no information on the 2.0 at all. All the service manuals are American and Australian. I could say I can empathise with all the classic car restorers, but they've got it better than I have, at least there's a community - I am totally on my own with this thing, and I haven't got a clue what's wrong with it.

I'm going to try and break down what's wrong with it:

• It can't idle properly

When the car is first started, 50% of the time (it's different each day), it cannot idle. Tonight, for example, the car wouldn't start. An hour into it, it was spluttering, but it wouldn't idle at all. Not sure if it was firing on all cylinders or fuel was getting through, I haven't a clue.
What it could be: Injectors, Vacuum leak, Fuel filter, ECU is not working properly, Idle Controller, etc

• The boost gauge sometimes doesn't work

See previous posts - sometimes the boost doesn't read, sometimes it does. Sometimes it affects the running and idling of the car, and sometimes it doesn't.
What it could be: I've been told it could be the MAP Sensor (see bottom), the Boost Sensor, ECU.

• Exhaust spits out black soot

Car spits out black soot and 'water' (?) from exhaust under load. Otherwise known as overfuelling, or fucked.
What it could be: Injectors, number of sensors, etc.

I fixed the cruise control unit that broke when I impaled my hand with a sharp implement. I used a straw from a Capri-Sun, used a smaller straw, pushed the small straw through the big one, melted the big straw to the small one, used heat-shrink tubing around the two, put it in the hole, and then used silicon sealant to seal it up. Unfortunately, I broke the homemade straw in a moment of careless-ness, and will have to use some kind of hardening compound to create a straw to put the vacuum pipe on, it was too flimsy.

1. Homemade straw,
2. in the Cruise Control Unit.
3. Broken home made straw in the Cruise Control Unit.

I am purchasing a MAP sensor, correct injectors and a second hand ECU, and that's it. I've been told it's the MAP sensor, as this is the symptom of the boost gauge going funny. Generally changed the vacuum hoses for proper fuel pipes (the only stuff I could get).
Here are some devices that detect vacuum, the box senses boost (and the boost gauge doesn't work with it unplugged)

1. Tube Vacuum Device and 'Boost Sensor'
2. Boost Sensor
3. Tube Vacuum Device (don't know what it is)
4. How they were plumbed in - they're loose!

So will have to get them mounted somewhere, as I was told they need to be grounded. I can't find the MAP sensor. Cleaning these up proved fruitless. The fourth picture shows two vacuum units mounted to the inside wing, and one of these has a pipe 'un-piped'. I closed it off, and it still ran like shit. I shook the fuel filter slightly and this may have improved the running, but I really am scraping the bottom of the barrel now. I'm going to try and replace the idle motor sensor for one I know works tonight.

QUNTZ!

I received my first ticket today!!

I wasn't even driving it. Some c*nting job's worth planted a sticker on the car, which is taxed and MOT'd (and still on Totopop's trade insurance) for the heinous crime of:

"Reg. not conf. to regulations'

He must've been too busy as he has used punctuation to shorten his infant school scrawl. I think he means: "The registration plate is chavvy". There, it took me 3 seconds to write that.
So what this means is my perfectly readable numberplate, which was on the car I just bought, and is not being in use, while meeting the general criteria of being on the road (even though it's not in use!), will get it confiscated and crushed if I do not pay the 30 pounds fine within 14 days.

There is nice, dark place where they can stick this Fixed Penalty Notice. Up their AR$EHOLES. And it'll give them something to do retrieving it, instead of scoping the area for victimless 'crimes' such as this one. Jesus christ!

Epiphany

I replaced the throttle body gasket and coolant today - coolant was orange, previous owners obviously just used water. Gave it a good blast with the hose, and used some proper coolant and de-ionised water. It's still having problems, so have decided to stick a replacement engine in there at some point AFTER I've put the proper injectors in. It's not liking something, two things maximum are not doing what it should. There is only so much you can tinker with, and it makes sense to spend 500 quid on a working engine with new gaskets and belts, and a recon turbo. If the injectors cure it, fine, but with regard to more head-scratching - I'm not interested anymore, and there is no real source of information for these cars.

The AA man said last night the Achilles heal with these cars is the engine is on steroids (he helped his mate get his on the road). I think he meant it's not matched well with the turbo. He said it's a little engine trying to be a V8. I do think it's time to renew it, regardless of the replacement it had 14 months ago. You don't know what kind of driver it has had in the past, and looking at the coolant, I think I can guess. I'd never be that apathetic with an engine. I don't have any plans to upgrade anything on the car, I like it the way it is, and the surprise on the AA guy's face when he found out it was completely standard.

I was thinking of getting rid, and getting a Mitsubishi Sapporo or a mid 80's Nissan 300ZX, but think I'll keep hold of it.

ALSO, went down to the MGF, in order to loosen some of those rusted bolts (job one on the list). Managed a couple, and then just sacked it off, wasn't in the mood! Rover used a combination of iron, salt, and water when casting these bolts, everyone is perished, while the surrounding area is fine. In comparison, my Astra, the one I always moan about has given me a few moments, but has pretty much been solid and reliable.

Recovery

Car wouldn't start, with new battery or fuel. Not sure what was up with it. Replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor. AA was called out. He claimed it wasn't overfuelling, as he couldn't smell fuel - he went round the back and then claimed he could smell fuel on turn over. It was also getting spark. Was it overfuelling? It was still spurting out that black soot. Will position a blow torch and give it a few blips.


He towed me along while I had it in second, to clear out the cylinders. After about 400 yards, the car burst into life. I took it down the motorway and hit 80 mph quite easily. I would've pushed it further, if I were not being followed by the recovery truck and my dad in his Fiat Bravo. :)
I felt the car needed some severe punishment, so when it inevitably attempted to cut fuel, or whatever it does, I floored it to red line, and it seemed to clear it. The boost gauge was doing it's thing again. Finished up at 1am.

Tommorow, check possible dry joints on 'Ignitor', and other bits!

Parts Race

Here's a graph (late peak is creating humourous, but crappy early 90's graph):

Left work at 4.37pm for to head into Sandycroft, Deeside's 'Gallagher's Of Mitsubishi' and pick up my:

• Coolant Temperature Sensor
• Throttle Body Gasket

Exit from work was busy. Got a fairly clear run, before meeting the dreaded A57 roadworks traffic which was 1.5 miles long. My Tom Tom was telling me I would arrive at Deeside by 5.05pm.
I was greeted with more than enough of that flashing stream of red lights, and general slow-ness in the sea of crappy, injection moulded rep mobiles. I followed a Golf weaving through the traffic, as he seemed to know the quick bits.

By the time I entered North Wales, it was 5.15pm, and I was getting a 5.26pm prediction from ol' Tom Tom, and that's without taking more roadworks into consideration. I couldn't miss this AGAIN! To cut to the chase, I got there at 5.27pm, and got my stuff.

I arrived back at my folk's house to the sight of this!

If you can recollect the previous night's adventure, of course, my car was sat five miles away, in a side road. I have a plan to take my car up to the Starion. Put my Astra's battery in. Attempt to drive Starion back to Gan's house. Walk back up (with dog, it'll kill two birds with one stone), drive Astra back to Gan's house. Ponder driving Starion back to mum's house.

Here are my parts I'm hoping to fit sometime this weekend. I'm planning on returning it to either Gan's or my mum's house tonight, so won't be working on it, though I may put the new CTS in. Money is running out, so no more parts or super unleaded to go in, so I won't be trying any more journeys and new parts out for a while now.

spawn die spawn die spawn die spawn die

Another day, another problem.
Car wouldn't hold idle properly, at one point it shot up to 7000rpm before I turned it off.
The spray of black soot coming from the exhaust was interesting as well. It had never done that before, and I was starting to get complacent with the same old thing, I'm glad it's catching me off guard with random faults. The soot is water (?), which quickly evaporates (?), and leaves a black powder, which can only be removed with a brush and soapy water. Been told it's overfuelling. It only sprays over 3000 rpm, which is when the secondary injector kicks in ...
Before settling down as usual, I took it out and broke down five miles from my mum's house at 22.30. Brilliant!


I bought some really thick earthing cable from Maplin. I'm told it's £3.50 for a metre. I asked for 2m of black cable for 7 pounds, I got red cable. No I want black, he then brings brown and says 'it's sort of black'. Then I'm told it's 7 quid for a metre. Argh. It looks nice and clean though. Look at the difference between old and new. I can use "jump lead" cable, which is less pretty.

• Main grounding position
• Old ground connector
• 12mm wire and battery eyelet connectors
• Old wire and new wire

Hooked it up with big eyelets from Halfords (2 for 2 quid - bargain as usual ...). Cleaned up ECU connector, cleaned up a lot of things with a file and carb cleaner. ECU inside was missing a screw which earthed it to the body. Thought this would matter, but it didn't.

Here's where the boost gauge holds (photo on the left), and doesn't move. Tonight, it freed up without cutting out (photo on the right). It generally holds no boost at this level. The picture on the right is just feathering the accelerator.

Will leave work early tommorow regardless and pick up CTS, it's overfuelling, and it needs sorting. When I realise that's not the problem, I will take everything off the engine - manifolds, turbo, hoses, sensors, everything that can be unbolted.

I've nearly run out of ideas, but it might be:

• CTS
• Random damaged wire
• Wastegate solenoid
• ECU is shot (there was a bit of water on the connector)

So kiddies, it's overfuelling and it's cutting out. Are the two linked?
I'm now going to head back to my mum's house were my Astra is, as I need it for work - it's 00.20.

Maiden voyage

Last night I shot out at around 00.30 and bought some cheap mineral oil (4 litres for 10 pounds) and a couple of bottles of coolant. My pa kindly shot out and got me a new filter, as I'm in Warrington and there's absolutely nothing here, and traffic is always a major pain in the ass, it's like they're making it tortuously painful to actually leave of an evening. The past six months have been spent removing a roundabout on one of the exits (the main one), and it's like being anally raped everynight. My quest to leave early to get to Deesidein North Wales (1/2 an hour away), ended up an hour's drive to get anywhere near the place, so it was again abandoned. It's at the end of the motorway, how hard can it be.


As soon as I got to the Starion, I jacked it up and got to work at draining what was possibly 1/2w oil from the sump. I had no idea water could 'water down' oil in such a way. It had emulsified, and it was good to get it out. There was more than I expected (a full 4 litres, which is capacity), but I couldn't see this on the grey dipstick as it was just so thin! And grey! It took a while for the lot to come out, about 1/2 an hour to the last few drops. I couldn't find my filter remover, so dug a screwdriver into the side and spun it round by hand. It took ages, and 'oil' (I'll call it 'grey milk' from now on) was was everywhere!! I was preying this new filter was a good fit as I had bought one from Halfords for another car not too long ago, and the thread was not cut properly, so I was left with expensive oil, going through the old filter. :(

Jesus wept, this was taking ages, so I sat off and had a brew.

• Oil into bucket
• Oil in bucket
• DIY filter removal
  

When all was done I put the new filter on, and filled with oil. The last I left it last night was noticing the oil wasn't right, so I left it. It was running good, so I was hopeful. I left the car idling for 10 minutes - which is a record! The injector change and conector clean up had done something obviously - or had it? But could I actually take it out? Was it going to cut out again?

I tidied up and took it for a blast, but using no boost. It went well, a good five or so minutes to the petrol station for Super Unleaded, and a few more. I had done 4 miles in the car so far, before tonight, all ending in cut out. Tonight was different, IT WAS RUNNING! Until I floored it and it cut out - I hadn't tightened up the hose from the turbo to the filter, and it blew it clean off!

I drove up to Gan's which, and drove some more, what must've been an hour of driving.

Here's a video to show I'm not bullpoo-ing.

It was shortlived though. An hour or so into the journey, it once again, starting bunnyhopping and cut out. FFS! I thought. It started pretty quickly, and once again, cut out down the road. Each time, it started again, so I thought why not test it to see what happens.
I basically floored it, and closed the throttle and it gave a full in gutsy, blow-off, and then it cut out again! That was odd, I thought, as I don't have an external dump valve. I checked the turbo piping, and noticed the little stopper where the dump valve should be had been blown out! A quick sprint up the road to where it dumped it's load, to find the little purple Dandelion & Burdock bottle top in the middle of the road. It was put back in and I set off again.

Now it was cutting out more regularly, and I had noticed a variation in the boost gauge. Bear in mind I hadn't noticed this before, which may mean, it was a NEW problem, but there was a tell-tale sign when the car WASN'T working, and when it WAS! The picture to the right is when it's NOT working, and this is what the gauge SHOULD be doing! On idle, the boost is at '0'. In my case when everything is going fine, the gauge isn't working! It rests at -14, and I notice it creep up incrementally. As soon as the gauge is responding to what is going on, it's cutting out and the injectors are going ballistic, (as they were two weeks ago). And it IS boosting because it blew out my bottle top and the (loose) hose. I'm no turbo expert, so will have to do some checking on this.

This is a good result though - it's no longer smoking (no blue/black smoke), and even the condensation smoke (grey/white) diminished completely. Everything works, oil pressure is great, water temp is spot on (reacts to idling, speed, and using the internal heater blower), fuel consumption is just as it should be, etc. It's like my Astra, which in reflection, is so reliable, the only problems I've had with it are ones I've made myself. It has never broken down on it's own accord! It's just this, and it doesn't appear to be a major malfunction, as it's intermittent. I'd even say it was a short circuit, as it doesn't seem to be -anything- related.

Ruby

Here is the MGF which is now owned by my girlfriend, which she has named 'Ruby' (due to it's colour ... red).
This was purchased in August last year. It was a recovered car, which had been abandoned by someone fleeing debts and bailiffs (not a Steve McQueen in 'The Getaway' kind of fleeing), in a secure residential car park. It had presumably been sat under a torrent of rainwater, as the front off-side corner is suffering from some rust damage, which has failed it's MOT, due to it's proximity of the seat belt anchorage. The MOT tester put his intrument through the sill. I hadn't noticed this, but did when he brought two pages of red paper after testing it.

It has failed so far on:

• Hydragas dampers deflated - suspension too low!
• Sill needs replacing - mount points in danger of being near to rust!
• Brake pipes need replacing
• Handbrake cable needs replacing
• Possible new plate metal on suspension mount
• New wishbone balljoint

I think that's it. When you write it down, it isn't too bad, a couple of day's work. The car really is very nice to drive, and it feels safe enough. I liked it a lot when I drove it to and back the MOT centre, even up and down the motorway, MR config cars feel totally stable.

It's grey, it's liquidy, and it's not oil

I took heed of advice (not from any sane person to give the car a rest for a couple of days) to CLEAN my injector connections, and replace my 'clips' (the bit with the wire on). I used some new small files and gave them a good filing, only to remove a surface of white oxidisation and reveal shiny metal underneath. I was told this is a common problem here.

I also used screw extractors on the bolts that hold the top half of the TB in place and whipped it off. The old injectors were held in TIGHT, there was no budging them at all, and without damaging them (much) I managed to prize them out of their hidey holes, and experimented with the old and the new. The old ones DIDN'T run. One of them is definitely knackered and is open 100% (you can suck through it). The other works fine and resistance is A1. So, after messing about, the detail of which I'm not going to go into (as it's boring), I have the usual good nice running, nice idle, with normal throttle response. The pic on the left is the housing with the OLD injectors in. Notice how they look old and horrible. They were a pig to get out, and the 'o' rings leaked when put back in. I've 'binned' one of them, as it was just horrible looking.



Both injectors were stamped 'C39-1'. Without having knowledge of codes, these are designated for the 2.6 engine. The ones out of my engine are stamped 'C7Z-3'. Here are the old injectors. The one on the left is the '3' and the one horrible looking one on the right is the '1'. I ran the engine and I have to say it ran noticably better with the '3' and the '1' in place ... that was until I saw smoke rising from the turbo!

I quickly stopped the car, and checked the intercooler pipes for leaks, and then checked the oil. Immediately, I notcied something wasn't right. I could see a level on the dipstick, and closer examination revealed a watery, off-black liquid, that looked like grey milk. There was no oil in the car, apart from this stuff. What was it ... and where did it come from?

Here's the moment I saw this, but without the swearing that followed.
At around 23 seconds I stare (with the camera) at the turbo, and it sort of gets confused from there.

I came to the conclusion (though with the unbelievably random nature of this car, I wouldn't be suprised if a tramp had been pissing in my oil cap for a laugh every night), that the amount of water leaking from the throttle body gasket had got into the oil supply. I knew quite a bit had been leaking, but holy crap, not this much. I know I will be warned it might be a head gasket failure, but I know it's water contamination, as it's not 'head gaskety', I know it's not. Fortunately, I hadn't been running the car long, so I hope nothing's damaged. The turbo is fine, and I'll give it a proper servicing ... sometime next week!

I'm going to do some work on the MGF tommorow, so why don't you join me tommorow as I remove a few rusted bolts, inspect the crazy Hydragas suspension system, and check and replace the brake pipes. It's a completey different car, and it's a good laugh to drive.

Results of Idle Motor Test

My MPS and ISC tested fine on the resistance meter, it's all operating. However, my sanity test is showing true signs of imminent total failure, therefore I need to take a break from the Starion for a short while.

Here's a fun test I ran: (from http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=242 )

1. Engine must be at operating temperature. All accessories OFF, front wheels in forward position (Minimal RPM strain from power steering pump)
- Engine cannot be run for any periods of time lasting longer than 10 - 60 seconds.

2. After engine is warmed-up, turn ignition off.
- See entry one.

3. Loosen accelerator cable so it is completely slack
- RESULT! I CAN DO THIS!

4. Loosen TPS screws and rotate TPS all the way clockwise and secure screws
- EXCELLENT! I can undo my un-seized screws!!

5. Turn ignition switch ON for more than 15 seconds then turn OFF . (This sets ISC to it specified position.)
- YEEHA! I can turn the car to 'not engine running mode' for 15 seconds.

6. Disconnect ISC motor connector
- OKAY! I can ... no hang on wait. The ISC motor shares the same loom at the TPS (MPS will now be known as TPS from now on). How can I disconnect one, and keep the other connected, especially when the other one REQUIRES CONNECTION.

7. Start engine
8. Set idle speed with adjustment screw. (850 RPM +/- 100 RPM)

- Oh shit, I've got to start the engine. Here we go. chugga chugga chugga, idle at 200rpm, idle at 100rpm, , , , , 200 ,,, chugga chuga. Argh, not enough time to change idle 'screw'. Try again. Okay, I can't manage that, as the engine isn't idling. I'll skip this bit.

9. Stop engine
- Yep, already done for me.

10. Connect voltmeter to top terminals on TPS connector. (See page 14 -12 of Factory manual)(B)= Black & (GW=Green w/White stripe) Mike C likes to pull the rubber insulator out of the top of the connector to get a good connection on the wires. I like to use T-Pins to probe in through the top of the connector then attach with alligator adapter clips to the voltmeter
- TPS connector ... ISC connector. Which one is which ... Okay, so found the black and white/green wire! Connect new analogue voltmeter. I did what Mike C did as well.

11. Ignition switch ON do not start engine
- Okay chap. Oh god, voltymeter reads somewhere in the region of 2-4 v!

12. Loosen TPS screws and slowly turn TPS counterclockwise/clockwise to set correct voltage.
- Okay then. Twisting some.

13. Set voltage to 0.45 - 0.51 ( optimal=0.48 )
- Set it to 0.48 (as best I can with an analogue gauge).

14. Tighten TPS screws without changing setting achieved in step 13.
- Tightened!

15. Snap Throttle plate ( pull up on "throttle lever" vertically and let go ) (use throttle lever not cable incase cable kinks or binds)
- Snap!

16. Re-check and if needed re-adjust TPS to correct voltage
- Nope, it's great!

17. Re-connect ISC motor connector.
- Er.

18. Start engine
- Okay ... see 7 and 8.

19. Adjust idle to (850 RPM +/- 100 RPM)
- See above

20. Shut engine off.
- See above

21. Turn ignition to the ON position for 15 seconds then turn to OFF position
- Yes.

22. Tighten and adjust accelerator cable - 1+ mm free play
- Yes.

23. Make sure ISC control switch (just) touches stopper on throttle lever (lever accelerator cable is attached to)
- Yes.

24. Start engine
- See 18.

25. Confirm Correct Curb Idle Speed
- WTH?

RESULT = ENGINE WON'T IDLE TO DO IDLE TEST.

So, I am now onto the conclusion, that in order to at least get the idle set up properly I need to give it a few hours of preparation, and get the old injectors on just to see the difference in fuelling (I know one works).
I need to do the brake pipes on Gan's MGF, which I will put up, possibly tommorow, as it's a nice simple car to work on! Phew.

Stage One - "Entering Nightmare" stage

Firstly:

a) One week into buying my SECOND multi-meter in 6 months, it has, once again, been thieved with no trace. So, back down to B & Q for -another- one. These things aren't cheap, especially when you are on the third one. This time I'm leaving it in the car.

b) I can't seem to see my Halfords screwdrivers which are good at not stripping the tops of screws, so that's handy.

-THANK YOU TWATS-

Anyway, much like Friday evening, the car is starting but ... yes okay, you should know the story by now.

I've been pointed in the direction of the IPS (or is that ISC)/MPS. Allegedly, these mean 'Idle Speed Control' and 'Motor Position Sensor' - the latter of which is the sensor for the IPS motor, or ISC? I think the MPS is also called a TPS ... 'Throttle Position Sensor'...

So it's a good idea to check this: http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=242

Actually, I've also been pointed in the direction of possibly having the wrong injectors. Apparently 1987 2.0l injectors are different to 1988 2.0l injectors. They even have different colours to differentiate ... sometimes ... or sometimes they don't. So you have to get the injectors off an identical car if you are buying second hand. I have 2.6l injectors. It's doubtful they're doing any good and just adding problems to all the other problems, like the ISC not being set-up correctly, or there being a bit of carbon deposit on the 'clip' (ie. 'connector').

So we could have a car that cannot find an rpm to idle at because the ISC isn't set up and/or the primary injector is or isn't providing enough fuel or something? There also could be faults with grounds being knackered, or sediment in the fuel tank which may have knocked the original injectors out.

When I bought the car, I was warned on the advert, that this car is a nightmare. I was warned when I turned up, with a sort of half laugh (like a 'when you said you'd shagged your dog, I didn't think you were actually serious?' laugh), that the car = 'it's going to be a nightmare you know'. I was then warned once again about the similarity to a sleep induced horror scenario I was about to encounter after I handed over my money.
My actual first thoughts were 'the wiring looks dodgy, I'll solder those four wires, and she'll be running like a dream'. I felt cocky, as I thought I was getting a bargain. Everyone warned me.

Two weeks later, and I'm starting to dread hooking up my eighth multi-meter with my bloody, worn hands on a cold December afternoon, while the icy wind scoops up more of my grease stained internet print-outs, and blow them down the road, and I slip of the spanner and my knuckles collide with the block, etc. I've made progress, but it's still a non-runner. And I've had it round the block, but I still don't know what's wrong with it.

So, for some reason, I've ordered a new Coolant Temperature Sensor, and a Throttle Body Gasket which arrive in Mitsubishi/Gallagher's in Wirral at 10 am tommorow morning. I've taken the 'that might not work, so I'll replace it' method. It actually could be the CTS, but it's highly unlikely it isn't as it doesn't operate the same way as the Vauxhalls do (the CTS is the source of all problems on those - scratch on the bumper, it'll be your CTS!)

I can't do it this month, but depending on price, I am going to buy a pair of injectors brand new from the same place according to the chassis number so I can at least feel confident I'm not taming some wild stallion that is just out to kick the shit out of anything that moves. I hear they're very, very, very, very, very, (etc.) expensive, and could maybe cost more than I paid for the actual car. They might not, but I'm on good information that they could cost an obscene amount of money, which might put the car on a bit of a pause while I remortgage my kidneys.

The beginnning - 6th July 2008

I hate the fact that there are seized screws bolts in my car. Every single one on the TB has seized and I doubt I'd have been able to sleep tonight at the thought of it, so I removed each and everyone, but not without a little disaster! While using light taps of a hammer/chisel on a particular screw, I went straight through the frigging TB! At least it wasn't my hand!



With everything finally off, and cleaned everything (carbon, oil, etc) up with Winn's Carb/Injection Cleaner and grease every orifice and moving part on the TB. The previous accident was replaced with the old base, and everything was assembled together with new bolts.




The gasket had also, er, 'perished'. To say the gasket would've been 'okay', would've been an insult to the entire heritage of engineering...

Here's what the official Mitsubishi Throttle body gasket looks like:

And here's what the official Mitsushitty Throttle Body Gasket looks like:

What was I thinking?! While probably not letting any coolant through, I doubt it was doing what it was supposed to do, as it was partially obscuring some of the cavities, and god knows what else.


Previous to all this malarky, I was squirting Carb Cleaner into various pipes, and took a video of the the throttle during engine running and after it cuts out. I'm not sure if it should be doing this with the engine NOT running? The car cuts out at 00.50 and it starts dancing like a worm in traction at 00.56.
... not sure what to do now, other than wait for a new gasket and Coolant Temp Sensor. I've been told to flush the whole fuel system and put new filters in, which is a good idea.

The problems - 6th July 2008

Okay, so yesterday evening I was repairing a vacuum pipe on the cruise control 'controller', with one of these. It's like a screwdriver, but with a point on the end, it's very sharp, a bit like a knife ... it is a knife, I could go out and stab someone with it.


I slipped with this implement, and my brain registered:

- The thing I'm modifying has broken,
- The tool is now plunging beyond the control unit,
- My hand is holding the unit,
- I've struck my hand with the knife-like tool,
- The knife is stuck in my hand.


I immediately withdrew my hand, to find the point had plunged a couple of centimetres in the outer palm of my hand. Not just nicked the surface, it was inside my hand! I had enough time to get a photo (as I wanted a complete blog), but I had to stop the blood running first! Here's a pic though. I've had an uneasy time using it, the pain during the tap part was intense, but it's okay now. I've done this a few times, but not as bad as this. I must stop doing this now, as the next time I will lose a finger, a hand, an eye?


So, as I was saying last night, the car is running fine for about 3 minutes, before it gets to some kind of temperature defined as warm, and then it is difficult to keep going. The control relay is tapping and it's not having it. I put the old relay in with the metal cover off (just to see which relay was tapping - the fuel pump ;) ). It ran fine, before glowing red, and the spring on the relay came off in a molten glob and went straight into the carpet.
So I got the new one, and removed the huge and annoying aircon unit (one of many behind the dashboard), and then mounted it on where it was originally. Fortunately, it didn't vapourise, but it continued to tap and whatever, and not be a man about it, instead of some whinging woman of a relay. It wouldn't stay solid and was all over the place. Like at 30 degrees it's like 'ohh, i don't know what to do, oh it's too hot, i've forgotten what I'm suppose to do' etc.

With the car cutting out, and the ignition left on, the throttle control (which moves the cable when idling) is still moving erratically. It whizzing back and forth, as if the car is still idling. I can't hear properly due to to traffic and general old age, but a solenoid is clicking when the throttle control is finished. One of the three vacuum hoses on the bottom of the body is spraying a mist of petrol when removed. The body is a mass of sensors and hoses, it's difficult to determine what's in there, but I now think the problem is with either the Throttle Position Sensor, the Exhaust Gas Recirc valve (which is soon to be removed anyway), or the MPS (which I don't know what it stands for, but it sensors the position of the accelarator pedal).

And then again, it could be the Coolant Temperature Sensor, as it's temperature related.

Another annoying thing is every single screw on the throttle body (which was second hand), is seized, so I'm going to have to spend a couple of hours drilling and tapping and using GM stuff as these screws are really soft.

I will head down to my friendly Mitsubishi dealer and order some more parts. Mainly:

• Throttle Body Gasket
• Coolant Temp Sensor

Here is a complete thread on vacuum/idling probs:

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1127