Results of Idle Motor Test

My MPS and ISC tested fine on the resistance meter, it's all operating. However, my sanity test is showing true signs of imminent total failure, therefore I need to take a break from the Starion for a short while.

Here's a fun test I ran: (from http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=242 )

1. Engine must be at operating temperature. All accessories OFF, front wheels in forward position (Minimal RPM strain from power steering pump)
- Engine cannot be run for any periods of time lasting longer than 10 - 60 seconds.

2. After engine is warmed-up, turn ignition off.
- See entry one.

3. Loosen accelerator cable so it is completely slack
- RESULT! I CAN DO THIS!

4. Loosen TPS screws and rotate TPS all the way clockwise and secure screws
- EXCELLENT! I can undo my un-seized screws!!

5. Turn ignition switch ON for more than 15 seconds then turn OFF . (This sets ISC to it specified position.)
- YEEHA! I can turn the car to 'not engine running mode' for 15 seconds.

6. Disconnect ISC motor connector
- OKAY! I can ... no hang on wait. The ISC motor shares the same loom at the TPS (MPS will now be known as TPS from now on). How can I disconnect one, and keep the other connected, especially when the other one REQUIRES CONNECTION.

7. Start engine
8. Set idle speed with adjustment screw. (850 RPM +/- 100 RPM)

- Oh shit, I've got to start the engine. Here we go. chugga chugga chugga, idle at 200rpm, idle at 100rpm, , , , , 200 ,,, chugga chuga. Argh, not enough time to change idle 'screw'. Try again. Okay, I can't manage that, as the engine isn't idling. I'll skip this bit.

9. Stop engine
- Yep, already done for me.

10. Connect voltmeter to top terminals on TPS connector. (See page 14 -12 of Factory manual)(B)= Black & (GW=Green w/White stripe) Mike C likes to pull the rubber insulator out of the top of the connector to get a good connection on the wires. I like to use T-Pins to probe in through the top of the connector then attach with alligator adapter clips to the voltmeter
- TPS connector ... ISC connector. Which one is which ... Okay, so found the black and white/green wire! Connect new analogue voltmeter. I did what Mike C did as well.

11. Ignition switch ON do not start engine
- Okay chap. Oh god, voltymeter reads somewhere in the region of 2-4 v!

12. Loosen TPS screws and slowly turn TPS counterclockwise/clockwise to set correct voltage.
- Okay then. Twisting some.

13. Set voltage to 0.45 - 0.51 ( optimal=0.48 )
- Set it to 0.48 (as best I can with an analogue gauge).

14. Tighten TPS screws without changing setting achieved in step 13.
- Tightened!

15. Snap Throttle plate ( pull up on "throttle lever" vertically and let go ) (use throttle lever not cable incase cable kinks or binds)
- Snap!

16. Re-check and if needed re-adjust TPS to correct voltage
- Nope, it's great!

17. Re-connect ISC motor connector.
- Er.

18. Start engine
- Okay ... see 7 and 8.

19. Adjust idle to (850 RPM +/- 100 RPM)
- See above

20. Shut engine off.
- See above

21. Turn ignition to the ON position for 15 seconds then turn to OFF position
- Yes.

22. Tighten and adjust accelerator cable - 1+ mm free play
- Yes.

23. Make sure ISC control switch (just) touches stopper on throttle lever (lever accelerator cable is attached to)
- Yes.

24. Start engine
- See 18.

25. Confirm Correct Curb Idle Speed
- WTH?

RESULT = ENGINE WON'T IDLE TO DO IDLE TEST.

So, I am now onto the conclusion, that in order to at least get the idle set up properly I need to give it a few hours of preparation, and get the old injectors on just to see the difference in fuelling (I know one works).
I need to do the brake pipes on Gan's MGF, which I will put up, possibly tommorow, as it's a nice simple car to work on! Phew.